FAQ

All FuzzHugger pedals are hand-made in the US, in the mountains of Pennsylvania. Every step—from drilling the metal enclosures, to creating and applying graphics, finishing, PCB population, and wiring—is done by hand, in-house. (PCBs are printed out-of-house, also in the US.)

As a one-person shop, emails are prioritized in this order: troubleshooting, repair, and important order-related questions come first—same day, or next. (If I take longer, don't hesitate to re-send!) Other emails come after repairs, building, and order fulfillment...some are bound to slip between the cracks. Some replies can be short, and some require me to wait until I have time to sit down and write a long, focused message. I enjoy and welcome emails, but it can be hard to keep up. Recently, I've taken steps (including moving back to direct-only) to be more available for non-essential emails...but please understand, I'm a parent and artist before I'm a businessperson.

For many years, nearly half of my work was custom. Currently, as I'm working on meeting demand and introducing new models, the answer is: sometimes. All custom work is on a case-by-case basis, and depends on my time and inspiration. I've done many custom graphics, finishes, styles, and mods (most of which have been posted on the FuzzHugger Facebook page). Also, I'm happy to discuss options with no pressure to buy—we discuss and work out all possible details before you decide whether you want to order the pedal.

Yes. I source quality, time-tested parts and back them with a non-expiring, transferrable warranty.

Short answer: • The Standard Graphic is like a thin pickguard, in material and durability (only 0.3mm-0.4mm thick). It's durable and chip-resistant, and the graphic wont scratch or wear off. I expect it to last the life of the pedal. • The Deluxe finish adds a 1/8" thick, domed (rounded at edges, and around LEDs, pots, switches), hard-wearing acrylic over the graphic, and entire enclosure face. It might be slightly more durable. It's mainly about looks. Longer answer (more details, care/cleaning): • The Standard Graphic is like a thin pickguard, in material and durability (only 0.3mm-0.4mm thick). It's durable and chip-resistant, and the graphic wont scratch or wear off. I expect it to last the life of the pedal. While it's susceptible to surface scratches (similarly to a pickguard), more than half of its thickness is a clear layer protecting the graphic, so the image itself won't scratch or chip off. In the rare event that a graphic gets destroyed (by some heavy sharp blows, a flood, exposure to solvents) I'd replace or rehouse it. I used to put a clear spray finish over the graphic, but found that the graphic itself was more durable than the paint, which was prone to nicks and scratches. Standard Graphic Cleaning: 1) If your graphic is an older one with a spray or textured finish over it: clean it with compressed air and/or a slightly damp cloth. 2) If you have the current graphic, with no spray finish, clean it with a slightly damp microfiber cloth, or better yet, a microfiber cloth dampened with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, which evaporates quickly. Care note: the graphic is affixed with permanent adhesive similarly to an acoustic pickguard—you don't dig your fingernail under a pickguard or this graphic. Pick a scab instead. • The Deluxe finish adds a 1/8" thick, domed (rounded at edges, and around LEDs, pots, switches), hard-wearing acrylic over the graphic, and entire enclosure face (it rounds off at the edge, and the sides of the enclosure are bare aluminum). The Deluxe finish is probably just slightly more durable, but it's mainly about looks. This finish just adds a touch more depth and beauty, in my opinion. It's slightly less susceptible to scratches and possibly minor dings, but a sharp heavy hit on an edge or corner might chip or crack the finish. I'd say it's more durable and chip-resistant than a painted pedal, a screen printed pedal, or even many enclosure powdercoats (thinner powdercoats can be prone to chipping). Currently, the Deluxe finish is stocked at random along with Standard graphics. I sometimes can do one by special order. It adds $15 (burlap adds $20), adds a huge amount of extra handwork. Deluxe Graphic Cleaning: 1) Deluxe Finish (high gloss, unpainted): Clean with a slightly dampened microfiber cloth, or a microfiber cloth with 70% Isopropyl Alcohol, or with a light petroleum distillate (like Zippo or Ronsonol lighter fluid).

In some cases, yes; contact me with questions or available mods.

Sorry, Wonka-style tours are not available. Safety and time constraints. I'm also a hermit.

All FuzzHugger pedals use the industry-standard: 9 volt, negative-tip (center negative) adapter, 2.1mm jack. (Check specs or manual for max voltage.) Yes, you can daisy-chain, but a power supply with isolated grounds offers quieter operation. FuzzHugger has been battery-free since 2008...we've saved untold thousands of batteries from ending up in landfills.

Extreme international shipping delays have become very common in 2022, as there are reduced flights, route disruptions, and/or lack of carriers. As of 2022, the "transit time" estimates provided by the courier should just be disregarded. Additionally, international tracking is rarely updated. We've seen more egregious shipping delays in 2022 than in the past fourteen years combined. For example: • Packages spending a month or more in customs. • Packages (addressed correctly, yet) being sent to the wrong country, then having to clear that country's customs, then being routed back to the US dispatching center (which automatically forwards the packages back to the correct country). • Packages seeming lost for two months, with no tracking updates, then suddenly, forwarded on. This is very frustrating. I can't do anything about customs delays, courier delays, and/or global disruptions. I hate having to say this, but please expect your international shipment to take 1-2 months. In the cases where everything goes right and it arrives in 7-12 days, then that's a bonus. Since 2008, I think only three international shipments have been lost in the mail. In both cases, I verified it with USPS, and more importantly, sent replacements to the customer. If you ordered a pedal, you will get that pedal or your money back.

Import taxes vary per country. You should be able to find calculators/estimators online (just be sure to use official and/or reputable calculators). Please research these fees and know what to expect before buying. The customs process varies per country. Some countries simply charge you the tax/fees based on the forms on the package; some countries are strict and require you to bring your order receipt. I have zero control over a country's customs process, or how long customs processing takes. Sometimes a package can get delayed in customs by a week or longer, which is frustrating but out of my control.

Thick, domed, high-gloss, hard-wearing acrylic.

• FuzzHugger's Deluxe Finish is a thick, domed, hard-wearing acrylic. It adds extra visual depth and vibrance to my signature vibrant graphics. It's durable and chip-resistant. It costs the most, as it requires extensive hand-finishing. • FuzzHugger's "Graphic, No Finish" makes for a lower price-point. It's flat, thin, and glossy, but is more chip-resistant than a silk-screened graphic, and/or a sprayed clear-coat. • FuzzHugger's "Matte Finish" adds a thin clear-coat over the graphic. • FuzzHugger's Metalwork finishes are screened, acid-washed, and sealed with a clear-coat.

Not actually a frequently asked question, but it might save an email. Voltage and Bias knobs both make a scratching sound when adjusted—this is the sound of the circuit adjusting to the live voltage change. Adjusting the Bias knob might make a woosh, split-second volume dip or lag before kicking in. (Phantom Arcade owners: the 1-Up / Sustain knob will also function like the Bias knob.) Certain pedals have featured a "master voltage" / starve knob, which adjusts overall voltage between around 3v and 9v (or depending on your adapter, up to 12v, 16, 18v). Depending on when your pedal was made, this knob might be labeled as Power, Voltage / Volt, Starve, or Text.

Not actually frequently asked, but occasionally I see an old FuzzHugger for modification or repair, and one or more knobs are difficult to turn. This is simple to correct. If your knobs are difficult to turn, you likely have pushed your knobs down onto the potentiometer threads over time. You'll need a small / micro / glasses screwdriver (flat head); raise the knob off the pot threads, so that you can see 1-2 millimeters of smooth shaft, and re-tighten.